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The
suggestions that follow are from Darla Duffy and other great
volunteers at Sheltie Rescue and you will see Shelties mentioned
throughout. Whatever kind of dog you're looking for, just change
the name and take into account 'your' breed's characteristics as you
read along. It will help you decide how your particular dog
might behave if it is lost, confused and on its own.
How
to find a lost dog
MOST
IMPORTANT is to get
the word out.
Go on foot to every household in the area. Not everyone gets a
newspaper, nor do they read the LOST ads. If there are signs
out, attention is drawn to the fact that there is a lost Sheltie.
Then if somebody happens to see a dog, they 'will' pay attention and
almost always will try to help a lost 'Sheltie'. Say 'Sheltie'
on your advertising mode; in smaller print, however, say
'miniature Collie' because some people have no idea what a Sheltie
looks like but everyone remembers Lassie! We don't care about
semantics at this point in time, call it a miniature Collie!
If
this was a timid dog to begin with, he will be hiding, petrified.
When hunger finally overtakes fear, he will venture out of his hiding
place. That is when mass notification of the whole area will pay
off. Somebody will see him and call a phone number from a sign
or one of the business cards you will make up. And when that
call comes, somebody needs to GO
RIGHT THEN
because
the dog is going to have fear overtake hunger again and go back to
hiding somewhere.
Do
large posters 14x21 in very bold print that can easily be seen by a
passing vehicle. Make sure you include the telephone number of
someone immediately available to check out a sighting. No small
size signs. You want someone driving by to be able to see the
phone number easily so that they can call from a cell phone if they
spot the dog.
In
this age of computers, it is easy to do your own business cards.
I make up cards with the dog's picture, the date lost, where lost,
phone numbers...and hand those out to children, people out walking
their dogs, running, riding bikes, etc. Sometimes they throw
away flyers where they'll keep a business card.
Always
include the phone number of someone who is there and ready to take a
call all the time. When someone calls with a sighting, you must
go NOW, not hours later. Dogs, especially shelties, usually do
not meander around the same place; they seem to be 'going
somewhere', whether it's back to their hideout or heading for a new
one.
Lost
Shelties are in 'flight mode'. If you think they will come to
you when you call them, that has not been my experience. They
see a human or a dog and they are gone. They don't wait to see
who it is.
Most
times, a humane trap is a very good idea. If you have a decent
Animal Control, they may loan you one if you have a sighting.
Some of us have purchased our own traps. Place clothing, toys
and food in the trap and give it time. Go frequently to release
any captured critters that you didn't want to capture, like cats and
raccoons.
Be
diligent in your search. Don't think he will come home on his
own. Sometimes they do, but you cannot take a chance. Make
sure everyone knows this dog is being searched for and continually 'be
seen searching'!
This alerts anyone who might have the dog to the fact that you are not
going to give up and go away!
Words
of advice from a dog officer: make sure you keep calling dog
officers. You MUST physically check
the
Animal Control facility and Humane Society yourself. Do not
leave the decision as to whether a dog in 'jail' is a Border Collie,
Aussie or a Sheltie up to an inexperienced, low-paid shelter worker!
And check the vet clinics, too. Yes, you'll drive them crazy,
but better safe than sorry.
Talk
to the local delivery people; mail carriers; oil, gas and
electric company workmen and ask them to keep an eye out for the dog.
Give them one of those business cards. Seek out every child in
the neighborhood (kids always know where the dogs are on the street)
and give them a flyer or business card with your number. Post
flyers at schools and playgrounds.
Most
importantly, remember, lost dogs do not usually range. They
usually stick to one particular area. Now, your dog might have
travelled a couple of miles before she got to that area, or she
might be around the corner, but odds are, if she's loose and not
stolen, that she's either with someone or she's staked out an area.
Make sure to look for her at her regular meal times. This
seems to bring lost and frightened dogs out of hiding, being the
creatures of habit that they are. Rule of thumb, though,
expand by one mile in each direction for every day she's been
missing. And call all Animal Control Officers, shelters and
vets in those areas. Mail flyers to all local vets...those
within 30 minutes driving distance.
Create
'drop
zones'
where you can leave food and an article of your clothing so that if
she runs across it, she will stay with your scent. We
successfully found one of my own dogs that I had recently placed
when she escaped her new owners and couldn't be caught. We had
reports on her in an area, left a shirt there, and there she stayed
until caught. (She was terrified and wouldn't go near her new
owners.) If possible...and she's used to it...leave her crate
outside, too.
Since
I spend a good part of my day looking for lost dogs, I can tell you
that they are really easy to miss. They can be five feet away
and you'll miss them, but they are creatures of habit and, even when
lost, they stick to a routine.
You
need to think like a dog. What does she like? Where
would she be most likely to head? Is there another house or
yard in the neighborhood similar to yours? She might be there.
If she's crossed a street, she might have a visual barrier
preventing her (in her mind) from returning. Follow the lay of
the land; which way would 'you' be most likely to go if you
were she? Put one of your other dogs on a leash and see which
way it's inclined to head for a general idea. Try a
whistle...like a gym whistle...which carries a lot further than a
voice and instantly catches a dog's attention.
If
you suspect the dog may have been stolen, state on the flyer that
the dog is microchipped and, if it's a bitch, that she is spayed.
I put NEEDS MEDICATION in large print on my flyers and posters.
And, if at all possible, offer as large a reward as you can afford.
Stating
that a dog is microchipped or tattooed on the flyers and posters
gets results. I had one returned almost immediately after I
added that. We believed the dog had been 'removed' from its
yard unwillingly and when it was known that the dog could be
positively identified, even at a later date, it was returned.
If
you are thinking someone 'has' the dog because there have been no
sightings...two things. As you are driving around looking,
tape one of those large posters to the back of your vehicle so that
everywhere you go, people know 'somebody' is still looking for this
dog and is NOT just going to go away!
And
last, try writing in big red letters on the poster "BELOVED
CHILD'S PET". Maybe you'll tug at someone's heartstrings
if they think the dog belongs to a child.
Good
Luck!
Darla
Duffy
Sheltie
Rescue
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